Installing an Outside Spigot on a Mobile Home
Our mobile home didn’t come with an outside spigot/faucet of any kind. We were told it was a fairly easy thing to add if you knew what you were doing and had this one special tool. This person recommended cutting the belly wrap to access the main water line under the kitchen sink and then running a pipe to an exterior wall. Since we had no idea what we were doing, and were terrified of cutting into that protective underside wrap, we got a quote from a plumbing company. They said it would be a whopping $400 to have installed. That was all the motivation we needed to do it ourselves. I can’t say this is the right way, but it’s step by step what we did so you can determine for yourself what you want to do in your home. Comment below with your experiences to teach others! **Do so at your own risk! We assume no responsibility for injury to yourself or your home!
**Update 04/2016: After an uneventful winter we have the hose connected again and have been using it regularly to water plants. I wanted to point out that we’ve noticed the water pressure with this method is not as high as what I would expect from a typical spigot. Enough pressure to water plants no problem but not enough pressure to get a kids play sprinkler up higher than 3 feet. Not a problem if you have short toddlers but I could see some people not being pleased with this.
To Tee into the cold water line under the master bathroom sink and then drill a hole directly to the outside of the home. This would eliminate needing to go under the trailer and cut into any of the belly wrap. Less material would be needed since we only had to make it through a 6″ thick wall and no special crimping tool would be needed.
The Materials and Costs:
(As read from receipt. Cost reflects Maryland Lowes. I added Amazon links where I could for a better visual, otherwise their prices on ‘home improvement store items’ seem much higher.)
- One, roll of plumbers tape (contrary to we were told by a Lowes employee that tape would not be needed when working with plastic, we DEFINITELY needed tape…and a lot of it). Cost:Estimated $1.50
- One, 1/2″ SCH40 threaded Tee. (PVC) Cost: $0.99 (This is it on Amazon).
- Two, 1/2″ X 1 1/8″ threaded close SCH80 Nipple. (plastic) Cost: $0.32/each. (This is an example of what it looks like on Amazon, though it’s not plastic).
- One, model 17 Faucet CP Inlet. (6inch, freezeless and copper) Cost: $37.10 (Like this). ***at 6″ someone had to press the spigot from the outside to be able to screw the supply line on from the inside. A longer faucet would probably be easier and more clearly show if you had any leaks (see pictures below).
- A drill.
- 1″ Speedbor for drilling hole in wall. We bought an 8PC Speedbor set because we weren’t sure on size needed. Cost for set: $21.98.
- 1/4″X1/2″ extension for the Speedbor used to drill hole through wall.
- One, PVC faucet supply line/faucet connector, 1/2″X 1/2″ (ours was 20″ in length because we used one we had left over from replacing our kitchen sink. As you can see in the pictures below we didn’t need one that long). Cost: Estimated $5.00
Total cost from a Maryland Lowes (not including drill or Speedbor tools): About $48 with tax
Total cost (including Speedbor tools):About $82 with tax
Step 1-Turn off the cold water line under the bathroom sink (rotate valve knob opposite way). Open faucet handle to drain water and close again. Unscrew cold water faucet connector, hold a towel underneath and open faucet hand once again. This will release the suction and empty the line of any more water.
Step 2- First wrap the two threaded nipples with plumbers tape (we did about 10 wraps) and then screw them into the left and right side of the PVC tee.
Step 3-Wrap the original metal cold water line (where the valve knob is) with a lot of plumbers tape. We did at least 15-20 wraps (had issues with it leaking when we did anything less).
Step 4-Screw the middle of the PVC tee to the original metal cold water line from step 3. Tighten, tighten, tighten.
Step 5-Screw left side of PVC tee into the existing cold water faucet connector line that goes back up to your sink. Tighten!
Step 6- Screw right side of PVC tee into the PVC faucet connector piece you bought.
Step 7-Drill through the wall to the exterior of the home using the 1″ Speedbor. Drill at a slight downward angle so that the faucet pipe will naturally drain.
Step 8-Wrap faucet threads with plumbers tape, install from outside and screw on the remaining end of the PVC faucet connector. For this step someone had to press on the faucet from outside of the home to be able to screw all the way on.
Step 9- Rotate cold water value to open water line back up and watch for leaks. If you have leaks, turn off, unscrew leaking section and reapply plumbers tape with even more than you did last time and really tighten. We had to redo this about 3-4X before we got it right and finally had no leaks. The annoying part was how all the connectors would twist as you tightened one connector. Which meant that typically steps 4-6 had to be repeated every time regardless of if only one leaked.
Step 10-Once you have no leaks, drill in two screws to secure the faucet into the exterior wall. We also filled around the faucet with that expanding foam stuff. Not very pretty but hopefully it keeps the cold air, bugs, and moisture out of our walls.
Hi there! I’m Kaley, prevailing parent and wife, but also just me; stubborn lover of DIY everything, outdoors, and chocolate. Read more about myself and my family under the “Parenting” > “About My Family” tabs.